Goa è un piccolo stato indiano sulla costa occidentale dell’India, nella regione del Konkan. Un paradiso di biodiversità, bellezze naturali ed un patrimonio storico-culturale ed architettonico notevole che attrae ogni anno migliaia di turisti che si riversano sulle spiagge, un tempo destinazione romantica oggi in preda al degrado ambientale. Le isole a largo di Goa sono piene di rifiuti. Sopravvissuto a quattro secoli di dominazione portoghese e all’alto afflusso di hippies negli anni Sessanta, oggi lo stato affronta un pericolo ben più temibile: il turismo di massa. Pensate che la popolazione totale dello stato ammonta a 1,5 milioni di persone mentre ogni anno a transitare sono 2,5 milioni di turisti assetati di resort da sogno che trasformano in un incubo il paesaggio.
C’è chi aveva lasciato tutto per andare a vivere in questo paradiso e ora lo vede trasformato in una fogna. Come Venkatesh Charloo, un bancario che lavorava ad Hong Kong e che decise, 15 anni fa, di mollare la sua vita, il suo lavoro alla volta di Goa, dopo essere rimasto affascinato da un documentario di Cousteau che ne illustrava le meraviglie. Ora l’uomo racconta a Le Monde che è arrabbiato dai cambiamenti drammatici che ha visto anno dopo anno consumarsi sotto i suoi occhi.
Ci sono sempre meno pesci, spiega, e le isole a largo di Goa sono letteralmente coperte di spazzatura. Le spiagge di Goa, nella classifica stilata dal National Geographic figurano tra le peggiori al mondo. Il prezzo della popolarità e di un turismo insostenibile che deturpa la bellezza, la stessa che a conti fatti spinge a partire. Buste di plastica e bottiglie di birra affollano le spiagge insieme alle mucche sacre e l’unica cosa rimasta inalterata qui, spiega Charloo, è il tramonto. Quello fortunatamente non si può insozzare.
Ma non sono certamente solo i rifiuti ad impensierire: ci sono allarmi che destano maggiori preoccupazioni a livello sanitario, ovvero la proliferazione di batteri coliformi fecali. L’Istituto Nazionale di Oceanografia di Goa ha appurato infatti che i livelli di batteri potenzialmente pericolosi, come la salmonella, sono aumentati a ritmi vertiginosi tra il 2002 ed il 2007, dati riportati da uno studio apparso lo scorso luglio sulla rivista di divulgazione scientifica Ecological Indicators. Le concentrazioni eccessive di coliformi fecali e di altri batteri patogeni nelle acque costiere non sono solo una minaccia per l’ambiente ma anche per i bagnanti dal momento che, in alcuni luoghi, anche solo farsi una nuotata potrebbe scatenare malattie ben poco romantiche a onor del vero.
I subacquei non sanno più cosa sia l’acqua cristallina: gli alberghi scaricano le fogne direttamente alla foce del fiume Mandovi, dove finiscono anche correnti che trasportano a valle i pesticidi usati massicciamente dagli agricoltori e le polveri delle miniere. E le autorità locali che fanno? Stanno a guardare, secondo la Goa Fondation, associazione ambientalista locale, sono completamente apatiche, continuano a concedere autorizzazioni per costruire alberghi a cinque stelle ma non si preoccupano minimamente di dotare il territorio di impianti di depurazione adeguati a smaltire l’inquinamento prodotto da un’affluenza così alta di turisti.
Senza contare che, per far posto agli alberghi, si sono distrutte anche delle dighe ed una rete di canali e zone umide che proteggeva i paesi dell’entroterra dalle inondazioni. Proprio nell’entroterra proliferano i rifiuti domestici, accatastati ai lati delle strade senza che nessuno si preoccupi di realizzare impianti di trattamento adeguati. Le autorità sono consapevoli del problema ma rinunciare al turismo non è in discussione visto che dà lavoro ad un terzo della popolazione locale, anzi l’idea è di costruire campi da golf e parchi divertimento per attirare anche un pubblico più spendaccione di chi ora, con zaino in spalla, esplora le bellezze naturali del luogo. Bellezze di cui a breve resterà ben poco se non si punta immediatamente ad un’inversione di rotta verso un turismo sostenibile.
[Fonti: Guardian; Le Monde; National Geographic, Ecological Indicators]
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